Cab franc is the 'other' Cabernet, and one you really should try

Cab franc is the 'other' Cabernet, and one you really should try

Quick: when you hear a wine is cabernet, do you automatically think cabernet sauvignon? Of course you do. It’s the world’s most widely planted red grape, noted for big, rich, power-packed wines you can swoon over and even invest in.

But I’m here to convince you to remember cabernet franc - sauvignon's lighter, fresher, juicier, and more versatile relative. (In fact, cabernet franc turns out to be one of the parents of cabernet sauvignon).

Cab franc has often been relegated to a blending grape – it added acidity, spark, savory herbs, and lush floral aromas to fat-bottomed merlot and cabernet sauvignon blends.

Once an underdog, cabernet franc has been gaining ground on its popular sibling since 2014 and is fast becoming the new insider choice for wine geeks, somms, and those who like to be up on the fashionable grape of the moment.

The all-cab franc style of France’s Loire Valley is inspiring more winemakers around the world, from Argentina to Italy, to create their own lively versions. Canada even uses it for ice wine.

What is cabernet franc’s appeal all about? Cab franc is misunderstood and quirky, yet smooth and elegant. The medium-bodied wines are different from cabernet sauvignon: loaded with charm and finesse, soft bright raspberry-ish fruit, aromas of violets and mint, less tannin, and a silky texture that can remind you of pinot noir.

While some top examples sell for three digits, the majority are modestly priced. Examples from outside the Loire are fruitier and sunnier, often with softer edges.

So what are you waiting for? Here are nine top examples from around the world to whet your cab franc tastebuds.

2015 Olivier Cousin Anjou Pur Breton: A legend in the natural wine world and the Loire Valley, biodynamic producer Olivier Cousin makes a couple of cab francs. This one is a wonderfully juicy combo of ripe fruit flavors and aromas, with plenty of zing, and from a superlative vintage.

2017 Philippe Alliet Chinon: Chinon is the most famous region for Loire Valley reds, and a family noted for meticulous winemaking is behind this juicy, tasty entry-level example from old vines. One of their four cab francs, it’s a combination of bright fruit and a mineral edge.

2016 Bodega Catena Zapata AppellationSan Carlos Cabernet Franc: This pioneering winery in Argentina never stops experimenting. This purply, mouth-filling, spice-and-cassis-inflected example from their appellation lineup comes from one of the cooler spots in the Uco Valley and from a cool year.

2016 Calcu Reserva Especial Cabernet Franc: Made from younger vines in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, this wine is all about bright, fresh raspberry and blueberry fruit with floral and herb aromas, and it’s a very good value.

2016 Duemani Cifra Cabernet Franc: Superstar winemaker Luca d’Attoma planted his property on the Tuscan coast with the grape he loves. Certified organic and biodynamic, it’s a hearty, high-personality example, with aromas of dark berries, plummy flavors, and a rich, thick texture.

2015 Raats Family Cabernet Franc: In South Africa, the grape was only introduced in the 1980s. Stellenbosch winemaker Bruwer Raats has been growing it since 2000, and makes several bottlings. This one is intense and complex with spicy fruit, hints of dark chocolate, and a velvety texture.

2017 Lieu Dit Cabernet Franc: Founded in 2011 by two Loire lovers, this Santa Barbara County winery specializes in grapes from that region. This wonderfully pure, bright, floral wine has intense cherry-savory notes.

2015 Garage Wine Cabernet Franc San Juan de Pirque Vineyard: This exciting wine made by a native Canadian comes from a high-altitude vineyard in the Maipo region of Chile. It’s dark and concentrated with plush polished fruit.

2014 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc North Coast: The founders of this Napa winery aimed to make charming wines from this grape more than 20 years ago. They’ve succeeded big time. This vintage has violet and herb scents and stylish berry and lavender flavors, with a kick of acidity.

Elin McCoy

Elin McCoy

Elin McCoy is an award-winning journalist and author, focusing on the world of wine, and is wine and spirits columnist for Bloomberg News.
 

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18 Jul, 2019 03:00 am

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